I’ve been working on my fall wardrobe: I worked on a pair of black pants so I can choose between jeans and those, I made a few tops to go with those pants, I made three dresses that are longsleeved and jersey, there’s going to be a jacket and hopefully a coat.
I had my doubts about this pattern. It’s made for women who are a lot shorter than I am and I haven’t really seen it on women with my type of body. But two of the fabrics that I got from Stoff & Still kept popping up in my head as Aldaias and so I got the pattern, had it printed at an online copyshop and went to work.
You can mix and match sleeves, bodices and skirts. For my first version I wanted the faux wrap, the circle skirt and the long sleeves. I ended up needing more fabric than I actually had. It was hard (for me) to calculate the amount of fabric. Based on what the pattern said I thought I had enough, but I came up two skirtpanels short. I added 10 cm to the length of the skirt. I used some leatherlook jersey for the two missing panels and decided to just go with it, see if I liked it and if I didn’t, maybe order another metre of the original fabric. At first I put the leatherlook panels on the sides of the front skirt, but this did not look good, there was no cohesion. I tested it with the sides of the bodice in the same fabric, but this didn’t work either. I turned them to the back and decided to worry about them later on.
I think the pattern itself is pretty good. It was a pleasure to sew, everything lined up perfectly. I do have some doubts about the sizing. I was afraid that I chose a size to small based on the finished measurements, but it ended up being too big. I also loved working with this fabric. The Stoff & Still jerseys I’ve now worked with behaved beautifully, no rolling, puckering or what have you. The fabric is firm, but has excellent drape. I’m definitely looking forward to buying more (these were a gift and thus they reeled me in 😂).
When everything was done I still was not happy with the different panels. I decided to cut out some of the drops and applique these to the leatherlook panels to get more cohesion. I really like how it turned out.
I’m not really happy with where the waist sits. I think I’ll play around with it on a fourth version (these were all cut out as I did some cutting sessions). After making these, I read this post by Jenny from Cashmerette on waistlines. She says that for some people the waistline looks better when you place it above your actual waistline. I notice that I prefer my waist to sit a bit higher and going forward I’ll use that on my projects. I took the dress 5/8 in at the sideseams as it felt pretty huge on me. I think I could take them in some more.
For my second version I didn’t need to worry about yardage. I had the same amount of fabric, but was left with enough to make a Sointu kimono tee. I think I needed a little over a metre. I made the V-neck bodice, elbow length sleeves and the pencil kneelength skirt. I had some problems with the V-neck, there’s a slight pucker where I didn’t get my fabric flat enough, but it is hardly noticable when I’m wearing the dress. I used the same size, but used a seam allowance of 5/8 all over instead of 3/8. This helped with the fit.
For my third version I used the fabric from the August box of Sew Hayley Jane.
I wanted a more dramatic skirtlength to go with this and so I used a midi skirt pattern I drafted myself. Construction was simple as it was the third time in two weeks that I made this dress.
I really like the pattern and think it will become a TNT for me. I’ll probably play around with different skirts and will try how it looks with a shortened bodice.